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A journey in the Pelopónnèsos (Πελοπόννησος) in 1978 (Part II)

15 Tuesday Feb 2022

Posted by dragermeurtant in archeology, Greece, History, landscape, nature, outdoor, photography, street photography, travel

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1978, analogue, fotografie, Greece, landscape, pelopònnésos, Peloponnese, photography

As indicated in previous post (December 11, 2021), my journey in Greece from Dimitsana onward continued as hike mostly on feet, with myself as only company. An imprecise map helped me define Adritsaina as next ‘goal’, and I had the sun, time and a compass as lead. The Arcadian hills grown with small greek oak trees were hot and dry. The day passed without meeting any bipeds, and only a greek turtle crossed my path.

Mountains in Arcadia
Greek tortoise (Testudo graeca) encounter underway

After mid-day, I had to take care not to get over-heated, but some rivers provided refreshment at times.

In hammock of Bardaki (Μπαρδάκι) I was invited – when filling water bottle at local pump – to have retsina and tomato salad in plenty olive oil on the veranda. The hospitable folks advised a cool moment at nearby river Alfeios.

Bardaki (Μπαρδάκι) houses (1)
Bardaki (Μπαρδάκι), the house with veranda

After passing through Andritsaina, and after following a small path through the hills, I came close to a temple with just a few visitors. Some supportive structures had been raised, as an early step towards conservation. It is now an Unesco Monument, and restoration would start in 2001, with a tent (hood) placed over the temple remains. This Temple of Apollo Epicurius at Bassae of Phigaleia has been raised in 5th century BC. In retrospect, the photo is unique with respict to point-of-view.

Temple of Apollo Epicurius at Bassae of Phigaleia, 5th century BC.

At the end of the next day I came to a place, where several big rectangular boulder stones had been neatly arranged providing a plateau to camp. I had arrived at the ancient site of Lycosura (Λυκόσουρα) with the temple of Despoina. At the nearby village an elderly lady had the key to small historic museum, with some big antique statues, and a lot of dust. The entree did cost two drachmes.

Ancient Lykosura (Λυκόσουρα), temple of Despoina (1)
Ancient Lykosura (Λυκόσουρα), temple of Despoina (2)

From there the trip continued on feet or by hitch hiking or bus, via Megalopolis to historic Argos, Mycene and coastal city of Nafplion. On the quay outside this city, several young people camped and took a swim in the sea, not bothering to put on cloths between dives. Several times during the day, a ripple of unrest traveled along this quay, when a police officer came to tell nudity would be punished.

View from port of Nafplion to Palamidi Castle (1978)

From Nafplion, a regular buss service brought tourists to ancient Mycene.

Castle of Mycene, with Agamemnon’s Palace in evening light, empty of tourists
Castle of Agamemnon, Mycene, the Lion Gate

From Nafplion an easy walk along busy motorway brought me to ancient Argos, with its huge amphiteatre.

Ancient Argos amphitheatre

In the city of Argos, a funeral service was hindered by the defect of historic funeral coach.

Motor trouble of funeral coach (Argos, 1978)

Small garages are scattered all over Greece, like here near Nafplion.

By ferry a short visit was brought to Spetse, the island where the book “The Magus” by author John Fowles is situated. By taking some distance to the tourist crowds, – talking about 1978 – at almost all places something of rural Greece could be found. I walked a few miles from the port, and near the lighthouse I got permission from the guard to camp with my little tent, after having accepted the offer of a glass of ouzo and some fresh tomatoes.

Evening view from lighthouse to port of Spetse.

From Spetse another ferry brought me to Pireas and a bus to Athens, and that is where this story ends.

Athens, temple of Zeus

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